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Khao Lak and it's delights for all

Unpolished gem of the Andaman www.bangkokpost.com

Khao Lak beach in Phangnga, Thailand struggles to preserve its pristine natural beauty as the pace of change quickens.

Story and pictures by YVONNE BOHWONGPRASERT

"With the weather warm throughout the year, Khao Lak has become a haven for water sports enthusiasts. As it's the nearest jumping point to popular diving and snorkelling spots around Similan and Surin islands, tour operators offer a variety of scuba diving courses for both beginners and experienced divers. Some great ship wrecks just a speed boat away - one great tin mining shipwreck."

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A booming tourist destination, Khao Lak, in Takua Pa district of Phangnga province is like an unpolished gem. Pristine beaches, not to mention picturesque waterfalls, wildlife and watersports ranging from snorkeling, scuba diving and canoeing have all combined to put this once obscure destination on the world map. Tour operators are convinced that Khao Lak is a great choice for travelers looking for an alternative to next door Phuket's rip-roaring nightlife and shopping malls.

It comes as no surprise that in less than two years, hotels and resorts have mushroomed along a long stretch of white sandy beach running parallel to Khao Lak mountain. A brand new Bank of Ayutthaya branch and a 7-Eleven are just a handful of new conveniences that have opened up at Khao Lak Centre Point _ the place where everything happens after sunset. From half a dozen low-rise shops last year, the number has quadrupled, say locals, with freshly painted shops selling anything from coffee and snacks to scuba dive equipment. If you want a sumptuous seafood dinner, there's an open air restaurant round the corner.

The place may look deserted in the afternoon, but by evening it's abuzz with activities that include shopping for souvenirs or enjoying a drink at one of the handful of bars that front the beach. Don't expect the music to be blaring. Enjoy the ambience and company of locals as they regale you with their favorite yarns.

A popular pastime at night is listening to live bands performing at a number of hotels and resorts in and around Khao Lak. One of the more popular and trendy band is the one playing at a stand-alone restaurant and snack bar called the Happy Snapper.

"Don't be surprised if you can't find a place to dance the night away because nightlife is almost non-existent in Khao Lak. There are, however, open air restaurants and bars, but no loud music or raunchy entertainment. For that, there is always Phuket. "At Happy Snapper we give guests an opportunity to listen to top class jazz and blues, although we are short on dancing space," says the owner.

The clientele of this jazz and blues establishment ranges from local and foreign tourists to expat hoteliers who love to come to Happy Snapper to unwind. Happy Snapper's business has grown slowly but steadily since it first opened it doors, but the rapid-fire speed with which brand new hotels and resorts are being built on every vacant prime spot on Khao Lak is a good pointer to the future potential of this fast developing tourist destination on the Andaman in southern Thailand.

Local residents are divided on this phenomenal pace of land development. While the younger generation is happy with the changes taking place around them as it gives them the opportunity to find work in the hospitality business, the older folks are more skeptical, afraid of the ramifications resulting from new developments. Their biggest fear is that Khao Lak's reputation as being a squeaky clean leisure destination will be tarnished.

Tourists coming to Khao Lak are mostly middle-aged honeymoon couples, with a fair sprinkling of young couples and their children occasionally. German and Scandinavian tourists constitute its biggest clientele. It is definitely not meant for shopaholics and bar hoppers.

Khao Lak offers the best of Thai culture, tradition and nature that combine together to make it a must-visit destination for anyone who wants to enjoy a vacation free from anything that would remind them of city life.

International hotel chains, such as the Novotel Coralia Magic Lagoon Khao Lak and Le Meridien Khao Lak Beach & Spa Resort are not surprised by the rate at which new hotels are coming up on Khao Lak. This year alone, according to the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), 10 new resorts with a combined 1,000 rooms are being built to serve tourists in the middle and high-end segments. Currently, there are some 50 hotels and resorts in Khao Lak that make up some 3,000 guest rooms.

A lion's share of tourist accommodations now available are built in the traditional southern Thai style. Most eye-catching are the rustic bungalows that spread along the coastline. Land prices have sky rocketed in the past three years. Previously, a rai of prime land about 700 metres from the beach could be purchased for one million baht. Now it costs ten times as much.

Veteran hotelier Mr. Yanyong Khorpetch, who is also a senior adviser and former president of Phangnga Tourism Association, attributes Khao Lak's recent success to years of hard work spent in trying to set this tourist destination apart from neighboring Phuket. Mr Yanyong has been employed in the hospitality business for nearly three decades. He is recognized for keeping Khao Lak beaches clean by banning umbrellas and chairs within 50 metres from the shoreline. This attracted a barrage of criticism from tourists and fellow hoteliers alike. But there have been a handful of admirers too, who feel a hard-line approach is needed to ensure Khao Lak retains its natural splendor and majesty.

It all began to click six years ago. Under Mr. Yanyong's guidance, Khao Lak grew as a leisure destination, tapping European tourists during the high season and making sure repeat guests got the right attention and happy with the service. Mr. Yanyong explains that Khao Lak gained the confidence of tourists because it's safer compared to other destinations in the region. "Khao Lak suffered the least from the twin of tragedies 9/11 and Bali bombings. In fact, the number of tourists rose. You have to understand that the make up of this destination is such that it's close to nature, while the hotels and resorts are located far from each other ensuring guests privacy. The past three to four years Khao Lak has enjoyed higher booking than Phuket and Krabi."

A recent survey by Thai tour operators found repeat European guests giving their thumbs up to Khao Lak. Another selling point is its reasonably priced rooms and the bungalow-style hotels and resorts close to nature, adds Mr. Yanyong who also owns Khao Lak Laguna Resort.

Guests feel at home because most Khao Lak resorts offer warm service. Some repeat guests come back and spend a fortnight, some even months. The beach stretches some 30 km and the bungalows close to it are the favored choice of accommodation.

A tug-of-war is clearly developing between supporters of Mr. Yanyong's policy to keep umbrellas and chairs at least 50 metres from the shoreline and those who want to pitch them right on the beach to appease guests. Mr Yanyong refuses to give in, saying the practice has been in place for two years and it's already yielded rich dividends, arguing that the basic idea was to prevent Khao Lak from turning into another Pattaya or Phuket.

A handful of resort managers Horizons spoke to and who requested anonymity, said that they were loosing guests to other beach destinations as a result of the restriction. One frustrated hotelier said just a week ago, a Swiss couple checked out of their four-star resort after being told to pull their umbrella a couple of metres back.

"When I told this Swiss couple about the regulation they didn't say anything, but the very next morning they checked out. They were booked to stay with us a fortnight. I don't see a big deal here: our guests want to be near the water and don't want to get roasted in the sun."

But Mr. Yanyong, citing a survey, said 90% of the guests polled favored doing away with chairs and umbrellas by the beach.

Mr. Yanyong seemed more concerned about the inability to find qualified hotel staff in Takua Pa district in the face of growing number of resorts on Khao Lak which has led to a huge influx of manpower from neighboring provinces.

"The success of the hospitality business hinges on trained staff so I introduced a training course to churn out skilled manpower that continued even during the low season. But sadly, we have not been able to keep pace with the rising demand."

Meanwhile, spa business is also booming in Khao Lak, particularly traditional Thai and foot massage both of which are extremely popular. But there aren't many resorts that manage their own spa and health club.

There are three that stand out because of their cozy built and exotic Thai feel  the Bhandari Resort and Spa, the Bay front, and the Palm Andaman Beach Resort.

Of the three, the Bay front has the most innovative interior with mats used for traditional massage positioned opposite a fashionable Jacuzzi. The green walls and plants compliment each other giving it a nice blend of Thai and Western feel, which in turn is backed by a wide selection of treatments.

At Bhandari Resort and Spa, the look is typical Thai with strong teak overtones. The open-air sala is the best place to enjoy traditional Thai massage, while private rooms are also available for more intimate treatments.

One of the oldest outlets there is the Palm Andaman Beach Resort whose spa boasts of modern architecture. Its neatly decorated rooms have an assortment of Thai and Cambodian artifacts adorning the empty spaces on the walls.

"The spa has become the face of the hospitality business in Khao Lak," says Anupong Sa-nguanam, its owner. "Finding the right balance between service, product and ambience is what makes a spa stand out. Our guests are European, they like traditional Thai and foot massage."

Traveling around Khao Lak is much easier today than two years ago. Buses and pickups are the popular modes of transportation. Cars and motorbikes are also available for rent.

From trekking, diving and canoeing to waterfalls and beaches, Kao Lak has plenty to offer tourists and if Mr Yangyong has his way, rest assured, the beaches of this southern resort will remain pristine for a long time to come.

Travel tips

Travelers can reach Khao Lak by air, by bus, car or train. It takes slightly over an hour to reach Takua Pa town, which is an 80-km ride from the Phuket International Airport.

By air: An increase in the amount of carriers now flying to Phuket's International Airport has made Khao Lak more accessible from locations abroad. During the high season, there are direct flights to Phuket from all over Asia, Australia and Europe. Domestic flights from Bangkok are also available via Thai Airways, Bangkok Airways and Phuket Air.

Phuket Air:  www.phuketairlines.com; Bangkok Airways:  www.bangkokair.com;Thai Airways International:  www.thaiairways.com Air Asia:  www.airasia.com

By train: If in no hurry, take the train from Hua Lumpong railway station in Bangkok to Surat Thani province, and from there hop on a bus to Takua Pa (Khao Lak) and soak uo the exotic beauty of the countryside. It takes approximately 12 hours to reach Surat Thani, there are various classes of seating available ranging from 187 baht to 1,040 baht. 

By bus: An option is given to travellers between first and second class air-conditioned buses. For long distance destinations like Takua Pa, Khao Lak and Phuket, food and beverages are served on air-conditioned buses. Scheduled stops are also made at local restaurants to give travellers a chance to eat and answer nature's call.

Buses depart from Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai Mai) located on Boromrat Chonnani Road. 

What to do: With the weather warm throughout the year, Khao Lak has become a haven for water sports enthusiasts. As it's the nearest jumping point to popular diving and snorkelling spots around Similan and Surin islands, tour operators offer a variety of scuba diving courses for both beginners and experienced divers. Some great ship wrecks just a speed boat away - one great tin mining shipwreck.

The further one goes from the hinterland of Khao Lak, where dozens of waterfalls are within a short ride away from the beaches, the more mountainous and rugged the landscape becomes.

Trekking trails here have become very popular with full day package tours taking travelers on a so-called Khao Lak safari, which includes riding elephant into the jungle, swimming at one of the many waterfalls, rafting on bamboo barge in Khao Lak canal, and a trip to Khao Lak National Laem Ru Park which covers an area of 78,125 rai.

If I can be of any assistance in finding accommodation or arranging scuba dive trips please just feel free to contact me.