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Ten Things to do in Laos by Sonja Collyer

Nine months into my year long stay in Pattaya, and it was again time for me to make a visa run. This time I decided to go for another educational visa which (sadly) would take me to the close of my time here at Mermaids CDC and Thailand.

“Where to go?”, I thought to myself. After spending a month exploring Cambodia and Vietnam, I decided that it would only be right to finish the “circuit”, and headed for the sleepy country that is  Laos.

I both pondered on, and investigated the cheapest means of making this trip for some weeks. At one point I almost gave up on the idea, after nearly falling off a poor travel agents chair, from the shock at the cost of a return flight!

Roughly 9,000THB which is well over £100.00! Of course the “poor travel agent” neglected to tell me that although there are no direct buses there is in fact an overnight train.

Completely enthused at this after a previous, hilariously funny, overnight train experience in Africa (Nairobi  to Mombassa) I swiftly booked my ticket. A total steal at a mere 2,000THB return. (Approx £40.00) While first class is only a little more I opted to save the money and “rough it” on second class.

A few hours later I collected my ticket. On examination it said, “Bottom bed, male”. Being a family website I cannot possibly include the word that popped into my mind as I read the ticket. However, I was not pleased at the thought of having to bunk down in male quarters to say the least!

The ticket was paid for, so unfortunately there was little I could do at this point. I planned to stay for a weeks rest and recovery in Laos’s Capital city Vientiane. After all the traveling I have done in my time here, a week of doing nothing and catching up on some writing sounded perfect.

It can be very easy to burn yourself out here, and forget the real reason why we took that first step onto the plane leaving our respective homes. My excitement for my next adventure grew with every day that drew me closer to it.

With my backpack out of the wardrobe, and fully dusted down, I was soon on the bus to Bangkok train station  The bus was very cheap at 500THB, picked me up direct, and only took four hours.

For any of you thinking of making this trip why not extend it by a few days to spend some time in Bangkok. A very fast paced Capital, with all the modern amenities. It’s a taste of twenty first century, and ancient Asia all mixed together making for a lively and colorful experience.

Bangkok train station is a bustling place with many cafes, restaurants, and shops. Having a few hours to spare I headed for the internet café, and generally enjoyed my re-discovered travel bum status.

If you have a long wait and don’t want to go off the track then there is plenty to keep you occupied at the train station, including a shower room which is very refreshing after a long bus/coach journey.

As eight pm rolled around I headed for my train compartment, armed with a book, various munchies, and Thailand’s juice of the Gods (aka: SangSom) to aid in a restful nights sleep.

I was happily presented with mixed quarters of upper and lower bunks, the lower being seating areas with tables which would later be transformed to a very comfortable bed.

After feeding myself with fried chicken and cashew nuts, provided by the train couriers menu at a very reasonable price, I set about watering myself. As I toddled off to find the drinking/smoking area, I met a couple of like minded travellers who had also stocked up with various sleeping aids of the liquid variety (and very nice company they were too).

As our social evening drew to a close three very merry Europeans stumbled to their cabins, after agreeing to meet in the morning and cross the Thai/Laos border together.

For those of you that live in the city and have never spent the night in a barren country, then this is something you will undoubtedly love.

Cities, being very built up, tend not to have many stars dotted in the night sky due to pollution of the excessive light variety, as well as the thick smog variety. On a desolate railway track somewhere in Northern Thailand it tends to be very…well, unpolluted. Hence you struggle to see a vast area of darkness without any stars. It really is quite beautiful and serene.

Being rocked to sleep looking up at this phenomenon unknown to so many Europeans is something I adore so it wasn’t long before I was snoring peacefully, dreaming of distant galaxies.

Morning was met with the potential of breakfast, however still felling full (and slightly wobbly) from the previous evenings desert I decided to pass, and went to seek out my newly found travelling buddies.

As we departed the train in Nong Khai we were greeted with an array of tuk tuk drivers. If I had been alone I more than likely would have jumped on one to take me to the border. Fortunately, one of my fellow travellers had done this trip several times before, so I hitched up my rucksack and trundled off to the border with various nationalities in tow.

It took us roughly twenty to thirty minutes, along a level road, with the border clearly signposted. We approached with smiling faces, extra coins in our pockets, and waved goodbye to the disgruntled Thai tuk tuks.

When you “check out” at the Thai border you also buy your Laos visa. This costs $30.00 for British citizens. Prices vary dependant on the issuing country of your passport.

After a short bus ride (10THB) over the Friendship Bridge you arrive at the Laos border. Readers should note at this point, it’s advisable to take Thai baht as well as Dollars; you can change Dollars into the Laos currency of Kipp on arrival.

From the Laos border you need to get a taxi to Vientiane. The type of taxi you should go for comprises of an old transit van with a cage on top (very similar to baht buses in Thailand). These are the cheapest form of transport, be sure to wait for it to fill up and negotiate a price based on that. The less people, the more expensive it is to hire.

After about forty or so minutes along various dusty roads you arrive in Vientiane. DO NOT get off at the morning market. There is an absolute rabble of scary Laos tuK tuK drivers waiting for “dumb” tourists to rip off. They like to call themselves, “The tuc tuc mafia”. Generally they spend their time fighting with each other, sleeping, drinking, and occasionally ripping off the unsuspecting tourist.

Although Vientiane centre is within walking distance of the morning market it’s advisable to go straight to the centre, find a guesthouse and dispose of backpacks, before exploring the town.

There are plenty of budget guesthouses in Vientiane with more luxurious ones sporting large balconies along the Mekong River. Certainly visit a few, look at the rooms, and haggle a price before committing to anywhere. You can leave your rucksack with one whilst doing this, or keep it with you as they are all in close vicinity of each other.

Myself, and a Polish lady (Magda) I met on the train stayed at a place called P P Guesthouse. While it was clean, comfortable, and well priced I wouldn’t recommend lone female travellers to stay there. The manager (Wee) was very “European female happy”.

As my first evening approached in Laos I met my new found friends for dinner. This took place along the Mekong River on low seated tables and comfy cushions. A perfect setting, with great people, great food, and cold beer, what more could you ask for?

Of all the things I loved about Laos the main one has to be the food. If you head away from the American and European restaurants to the stalls along the Mekong River you will be able to fill yourself up on delicious traditional food at very affordable prices.

Definately try the traditional Laos dish of Sukiyaki which is a broth presented on hot coals. Into this you put your spices, meat, veggies, and noodles. It really is lovely. Also try the traditional Laos garden salad which is actually rice. You certainly will save a lot of money, and won’t be disappointed.

After a stroll along the Mekong myself, and Magda headed back to our balcony with our one Dollar bottle of whiskey for an evening of shared travellers tales.

Laos is quite a unique capital. It’s extremely quiet, in fact not much like a city at all. With its French influence it’s very sleepy which makes for relaxing, picturesque afternoon walks.

There really isn’t much to do in the evenings, when compared to the fast paced nightlife of Thai cities. Everything tends to shut down at around 12pm which is pure bliss, if you’re looking for absolute peace and quiet...

While I spent the majority of my time at the local swimming pool, catching up on writing, studying and relaxing. There is actually a lot to do in Vientiane if you’re prepared to go and look for it. Here’s a list of top ten recommendations……

1/ Wat Xieng Khouang; Buddha Park : This is located 24Km South of Vientiane, and can be done in half a day if your on a tight schedule. When the French took control of Laos in the late 19^th century they re-designed it, in keeping with the same style as the capitals of Ho chi Minh ( Saigon ) and Phnom Penh. Here at this park you will find a collection of different sized statues of a Buddhist and Hindu nature.

2/ Wat Si Saket: This is the oldest temple in Laos as well as the only one to have survived the 1828 invasion of the Siamese. The interior of the main hall, and the walls of the surrounding courtyard, are inset with thousands of tiny niches and shelves containing 6840 Buddha images and Buddhist inscriptions from the 18^th century.

3/ Pha That Luang; Gold Stupa: Stupas are Buddhist “spiritual monuments” which contain life trees and relics of departed Buddha’s. This Stupa is only a short walk form the Thai embassy so why not head there for the afternoon while your application is being processed. That Luang is one of the most famous landmarks in Vientiane . It was constructed in 1566 by King Setthatirat and restored in 1935. In the 17^th century it was covered in 500 kg of gold leaf.

4/ Vang Vieng: Only a few hour bus ride from Vientiane . It is here that the famous Mekong river tubing takes place. With a host of other activities on offer such as rock climbing, caving, and trekking it’s defiantly worthwhile spending a few days here if you have time.

5/ Phu Khao Khouay; Buffalo Mountain : This is Laos National Biodiversity Conservation Area, and is situated 45km east of Vientiane . A vast mountainous area rising to over 1000m are home to numerous wildlife, including elephant, tiger, and Asian black bear.

6/ Vangsang Cave; Elephant Court : The statues at this park date back to three hundred years before the of Lanexang (Luang Prabang) was founded. The park is an ancient sanctuary housing the remains of large sandstone sculptures.

7/ Nongbouathong Village Weavers: Famous for its fine fabrics, the village of Nongbouathong has upheld the traditional Laos style of weaving for many years. As well as displaying the traditional Laos technique of weaving you can also see some of the finer end results in the local village gallery.

8/ Lao National Museum : This museum is located a few doors down from the Thai Embassy. The building was originally a hotel, and in 1980 was transformed into the Laos revolutionary exhibition hall. In 2000 the museum was updated to represent the entire history of the Laos nation dating back to pre-historic times.

9/ Talat Sao; Morning Market: Right at the very heart of Vientiane this market, despite its name, is open all day and has some excellent shopping opportunities. Just about everything is available here from locally crafted souvenirs to modern day electrical items. Be sure to haggle for a bargain.

10/ Traditional Laos Sauna: What better way to end a day sightseeing? Head for the “back street” saunas and you may find you’re the only tourist there. Spend a couple of hours here and all those French/Laos baguettes will drop off you! The heat in the small wooden huts is so intense that’s its only possible to spend a few minutes at a time in there until the forest smelling vapours are too much. In-between trips inside you can relax outside in the fresh evening air sipping herbal tea.

It wasn’t long before my week of R and R was up and I was again on the train heading back to Thailand, with my newly granted educational visa in tow.

I had absolutely no problems going through the Thai border or in obtaining the visa from the Thai Embassy. In fact it’s probably one of the most “hassle free” experiences I’ve had in dealing with officials.

The visa cost 2,000THB (approx. £35.00), and was ready the next day for me to collect. So long as you take all the required paperwork, don’t forget your passport pictures, and photocopy of your departure stamp, from Thailand you shouldn’t have any problems at all.

So, now i’m happy with the peace of mind I can complete my MSDT (Master Scuba Diver Trainer) program without any visa run interruptions or requirements. The whole trip cost me roughly $150.00 and was well worth it. If I do stay on in Thailand to do my IDC Staff Instructor then this is defiantly the route I would take to get my visa next time.

Laos is probably one of the only capital cities left in the world that doesn’t feel like it’s purely dedicated to tourism. The people are friendly, you don’t get hassled, the food is great, there’s plenty to keep you occupied, and it’s a great place to meet like minded travellers… Now, if only there was an ocean...